travel

Greenville

Last Saturday we took a trip to Greenville, SC. The reason is simple: housing costs here are outrageous and we’ve decided we’ll have to look for more affordable pastures.

Greenville I

G’ville has the advantage of being close to the mountains and yet affordable. A home which costs $130k in Greenville (say, a 1,400 square foot three-bedroom home in good condition) would cost at least $200k here.

It’s good to look at the real estate section and not worry about the possibility of soiling yourself when you see the prices…

Cherokee uber Alles

Though I grew up less than two hours from this area, I never visited Cherokee, North Carolina. That’s a shame, really, for a trip there promises to be thought provoking and educational.

The best place to visit is undoubtedly Oconaluftee Indian Village, an outdoor museum that recreates the eighteenth century Cherokee reality.

The village itself is deceptively small. It seems like it wouldn’t take more than a few moments to wander through it all, but you wouldn’t learn much then.

Instead, there’s a guide who seems to know just about everything about just about everything.

Our guide also had the mandatory sense of humor that transforms a “guided” tour into something much more personable.

It was at the council chamber that the obvious was finally mentioned: the potential for a less-than-easy relationship between the Cherokee and the white tourists.

“I’m often asked, ‘Do you hate white people?’ when I’m giving these talks,” the guide said. There’s a lot of reasons to feel resentful.

  • White Europeans were the original illegal immigrants.
  • A British officer (his name escapes me now) deliberately spread smallpox among Indians by distributing contaminated blankets.
  • The Trail of Tears.

Yet the guide pointed out the obvious: it was not races who did this, but individuals.

It seems in Germany we’re finally seeing the realization of this as well. National guilt about the Holocaust made most Germans unwilling even to cheer their national teams. National pride was not even a goose step away from nationalism, that most feared -ism of contemporary Germany.

It was only at this last World Cup — held in Germany, which certainly had something to do with it — that commentators began speaking of German pride. German children cheered the home team, and German flags waved in the stands.

And that concludes the diversion…For lunch, K and I went to a small park and ate open-face sandwiches with one hand while swatting gnats and flies with the other. In the park was a small grove of reed.

I’m not quite sure what variety of reed it was, yet it could have left me feeling awfully clausterphobic had the path through the grove not been so spacious.

More photos at Flickr.

Recommendation

Perhaps the best album I’ve heard in a long, long time is Gillian Welch’s Revival. Simple arrangements, a stunningly beautiful voice, turn-of-the-century lyrics, all add up to one thing:

After looking at the cover of Gillian Welch’s debut album, Revival, and listening to the first two cuts, “Orphan Girl” and “Annabelle,” you’d be tempted to imagine that Welch somehow stumbled into a time machine after cutting some tunes at the 1927 Bristol, TN, sessions and was transported to a recording studio in Los Angeles in 1996, where T-Bone Burnett was on hand and had the presence of mind to roll tape. (All Music)

Welch is probably more widely know for her work on the Oh Brother, Where Art Thou? soundtrack. If you liked that film and the music — and the film was primarily about the music — then this will be a welcome addition to your collection.

Bristol

Bristol — miasto w ktorym wychowal sie Gary. Mniej wiecej tak duze jak Kingsport ale o nieco innym charakterze. Spedzilismy tam pol dnia w piatek. Gary pokazywal mi dom w ktorym sie wychowal, szkoly do ktorych chodzil, miejsca ktore odwiedzal. W piatek odbylismy podroz do przeszlosci. Domek, niestety nie zrobilam zdjecia, bardzo ladny, w bardzo spokojnej okolicy. Osiedle domkow zupelnie odciete od glownych drog–bardzo bezpiecznie, zeby tam wychowywac dzieci. Okolica na prawde ladna. Teren pagorkowaty, dookola ladne domy, duzo zieleni, sporadycznie ogrodki z kwiatami–idelalne osiedle dla rodziny. Jedna rzecz jednak mnie zasmucila aczkolwiek nie zaskoczyla. Osiedle sprawia wrazenie opuszczonego — po prostu zywej duszy nie widac. Jedynie fakt, ze wszystko jest tak zadbane uswiadamia, ze jednak ktos tam mieszka. Dziwni sa ci Amerykanie, wszedzie widzi sie piekne domy, wszedzie mnustwo samochodow, smilam sie wczoraj, ze Ameryka to jeden wielki parking ale ludzi nigdzie nie widac…

Bylismy w starej podstawowce Garego, w szkole sredniej i na uniwersytecie. Oczywiscie ogrom, przestrzen, funkconalnosc, wyposazenie robia wrazenie jak wszystko tutaj. Przechadzalismy sie po placu zabaw szkoly podstawowej, Gary przypominal sobie wszystkie sztuczki jakie robili z kolegami w malpim gaju.

I was surprised by the playground on the school grounds. This is supposedly for high school students’ children. It’s not that I was thinking that the morality in American schools is lower than that in Polish schools because they’re certainly comparable. I was thinking, though, of Mrs. Stopkowa, the director of our high school. Even thinking about such a thing would, for her, be “demoralization of children.” I remember that she once didn’t allow a student to take the matura [high school exit exam] because she was pregnant.

Liceum–no coz, my nie mielismy hali sportowej, ani auli o basenie nawet nie bylo co marzyc. Ale to sa standardy do ktorych mozna przywyknac ogladajac amerykanskie filmy. Zaskoczyl mnie plac zabaw na terenie szkoly. Podobno to przedszkole dla dzieci uczniow szkoly sredniej. Nie chodzi o to ze pomyslalam sobie, ze morale w szkole amerykanskiej jest mniejsze niz w polskiej, pewnie to sie wyrownuje. Pomyslalam sobie o pani Stopkowej, dyrektorce naszego liceum. Ona, sama mysl uznalaby za demoralizujaca mlodziez. Pamietam przeciez przypadki, ze dziewczyna nie zostala dopuszczona do matury tylko dlatego, ze byla w ciazy…

Uniwersytet — wydal mi sie bardziej angielski, w bardzo pozytywnym tego slowa znaczeniu. To niesamowite jak wszystko co wydaje sie bardziej europejskie niz amerykanskie przykuwa moja uwage. To zabawne ale ogladam sie w sklepie za kobietami w sukienkach — zaloze sie ze plynie w nich europejska krew.

Bylismy w pieknym parku. Wlasciwie w centrum miasta ogromne hektary ziemi to park, tylko amerykanie moga sobie na to pozwolic. Park podzielony na rozne sekcje, czy czesci. W jednej czescie roznego rodzaju boiska sportowe, w nastepnej miejsca na piknik, dalej place zabaw dla dzieci, dalej sciezki spacerowe a wreszcie bardzo ladny rezerwat przyrody. Tam tez pojechalismy. Zaparkowalismy nasza toyote zaraz przed wejsciem i poszlismy na spacer. To byl rezerwat na terenie mokradel. Szlismy lasem pomiedzy bagiennymi plytkimi stawami. Sciezki spacerowe to swietnie przygotowane drewniane pomosty (nasz stopa nie postala na lesniej sciezce) spotkalismy toche dzikich kaczek i gesi. Miejsce na prawde bardzo ladne–i co ?–oczywiscie nie spotkalismy zadnych innych spacerujacych… — czy to jest taki stary europejski, wymierajacy zwyczaj.

Flags but No Bikes

There are simply flags everywhere around my parents’ neighborhood. Kinga and I went for a walk yesterday and found a house that had seven flags hanging–and that’s not counting the Americana ribbons decorating the split-rail fence in the front yard, or the Americana pinwheels in flower pots.

And then there’s the “We support our troops” real-estate-style signs in the front yards. Unlike during Gulf War I, there are no “We support our troops —- bring them home” signs. Somewhat depressing.

What is it about patriotism that makes me so nervous? Why have I never considered myself a patriotic individual? “And I’m proud to be an American,” we hear from huge speakers during Independence Day fireworks shows around here, but I just can’t identify with that. How can I be proud of something I had no part in? How can I be proud of an accident of fate? Am I fortunate to be an American? Certainly. Am I glad I’m an

American? Yes.

But proud?

I’m not ashamed of it in that sense. Well, not usually. Kinga tells me that I am much more European than American now, though when pressed for an explanation, she couldn’t explain it more than to say, “Well, you don’t sit around on the couch all the time.”

Is that the view she has of Americans? If so, then I’m a little embarrassed to be an American. We need to clean up our image if that’s how the world views us.

Trouble is, Americans haven’t ever really worried about how the world views us. In fact, I don’t think the average American knows how the world views us. Perhaps we see all the Mexicans trying to cross the border and think of Ellis Island immigration and assume that all these people are struggling to get into the country to be with us in our great American adventure and eventually take part in that cliché.

That’s why criticism of American policy is often met in middle-America with the simplistic explanation, “Well, they’re just jealous, that’s all.”

“America is just one big parking lot,” Kinga said the other day.

There’s a lot in that simple sentence: the consumer mentality, the urge for independence even in transportation, the wide-openness of America, and often the emptiness of America. Taking a walk yesterday evening, Kinga and I were shocked at how the whole neighborhood is deserted. “Not a single kid out playing,” she said. As we were driving around Bristol Friday, the same thing. “If it weren’t for the fact that everything is perfect down to the last detail,” Kinga said, “I’d think the whole place was deserted.”

It didn’t use to be that way. When I was growing up, our neighborhood was filled with kids riding bikes, playing baseball.

Well, from my perspective anyway.

America has changed a lot in the last three years.

Tatical Nuclear Theater Ticket Stike

In Moscow, Putin angered Poland. How? By failing to mention Poland’s tragic victimhood in the Second World War. Poles were infuriated. But the president of the republic said nothing — he was a perfect politician.

In cafes and bars, plans for a strategic nuclear strike were drawn up and then abandoned with the realization that Poland doesn’t have nukes. The thought of using the forty-eight F-16 fighters in a mass attack was also abandoned because, well, they haven’t been delivered yet, and the fighter is rather ill-suited for bombing runs.

In the end, Poles did what they could – the one voice of protest and ill-will Poles could manage: they gave back their theater tickets. In Warsaw, a Russian dance troupe was scheduled to perform. Virtually all the tickets were returned.

Counter-strike, thought Putin. Now, instead of coming to Poland for a ceremony celebrating the end of the Second World War, he’s sending the a henchman.

Russia’s actions are widely seen here as a gigantic, Slavic middle finger extended in Poland’s general direction. I’ve wondered what the Russian interpretation of all this is, but since I don’t know Russian, I’m left imagining. The old master-and-servant mentality? Colony and colonizer? I don’t know.

Slovakian

Kinga and I recently took a three-day bike trip to Slovakia. Getting to Liptovsky Mikulas required riding over the Tatra Mountains. We could have gone around the western tip of them, but we decided that, having gone that way to Budapest, we’d rather see some different views.
And that we did. The weather was mercifully cloudy, but a bit windy at times, making the trip over the mountain (according to roadsides, a 12% grade) all the more difficult. Why is it that the wind is always a headwind when you really need a tailwind?
Wyjechaslimy z Jabłonki o dziewiÄ…tej rano. Pierwszy odcinek do Podbiela przez OrawÄ™ nie sprawił nam żadnych trudnoÅ›ci. Ale od zakrÄ™tu na Zuberec droga zaczyna siÄ™ piąć w górÄ™, najpierw nieznacznie ale na każdy kilometr trzeba było coraz ciężej pracować. 2 – 3 km za Zubercem zaczyna siÄ™ przeprawa przez Tatry Zachodnie – Rohacze. WiedzieliÅ›my, że czeka nas przeprawa przez góry ale nie zdawaliÅ›my sobie do koÅ„ca sprawy jak kiepska jest jeszcze nasza kondycja w tym sezonie. PrzebrnÄ™liÅ›my przez te Rohacze, wjechaliÅ›my na wysokość ponad 1100 m.n.p.m. ale to był koszmar. Niby tylko 7 km w górÄ™ ale spadek terenu ok 14%. Bardzo czÄ™sto siÄ™ zatrzymywaliÅ›my żeby odpocząć, usprawiedliwialiÅ›my siÄ™ piÄ™knymi widokami i Å›mialiÅ›my siÄ™ z braku kondycji. Ale muszÄ™ przyznać, że widoki sÄ… wspaniałe na tej trasie – polecam wszystkim rowerzystom. Za każdym zakrÄ™tem odsłania siÄ™ coÅ› innego. Najpierw obserwowaliÅ›my pozostawione w dole wioski, później widzieliÅ›my już tyko góry, coraz wyższe, coraz bardziej skaliste aż wreszcie najwyższe szczyty Rohaczy jeszcze oczywiÅ›cie zaÅ›nieżone. Jak wyjechaliÅ›my wreszcie na przełÄ™cz zobaczyliÅ›my już Niskie Tatry i LiptowskÄ… MarÄ™ – cel naszej podróży. Teraz czekała na nas wspaniała nagroda – około 7-8 km bez najmniejszego wysiłku, przynajmniej wysiłku nóg, bo okrutnie bolały mnie rÄ™ce od hamowania. Nie dało siÄ™ jechać zbyt szybko po tych serpentynach.
Of course, we saw some magnificent views.

Hel

In synagogue Saturday

My wife and I spent the weekend in Krakow. Saturday we went for a stroll in Kazimierz, the old Jewish quarter.

As I’ve mentioned before, Jews in Poland occupy a strange position. There are very few left in Poland today, and that’s why we were able to find ourselves in an old synagogue on a Saturday.

“We shouldn’t be here,” I thought.

“This should still be in use. We should feel as if we’re intruding, coming into the Jewish quarter on a Saturday as bumbling tourists.”

Around Budapest

Window fascination
Cooling down
Shopping
Basilica
Basilica 2
Basilica awe
Basilica top