vacation

Last Day in Clearwater

“G, come here! There’s water in the hall!” I was lying in bed, half-asleep, thinking, “I should go ahead and get up while I’m half awake instead of waiting until I start drifting into a deeper sleep,” but that certainly got me up in a hurry. There was a puddle in the hallway that led down to the back bedroom and ran between the kids’ bedroom and the kitchen. I moved into the living/dining room area to find a bigger puddle there. Multiple puddles. We looked to find the source and quickly determined it was coming from under the kitchen sink. I reached under to turn off the water, hoping it was just something in the connection from the wall to the faucet when, getting quite a bolt of electricity shooting through my arm, I realized that whoever installed the garbage disposal had not done so according to code.

We located the load center only to discover that not a single breaker was labeled. I did the logical thing: I turned everything off. Armed with the flashlight on my phone, I went back to the kitchen and tried to turn the water off, but it only increased the flow: the actual connector was somehow loose and trying to turn it off only compromised the connection further.

In the midst of all this, I was trying to get in touch with our Air B&B host:

Major issue here. The kitchen sink was leaking. Water everywhere in the floor.
Today at 7:41 AM

Tried to turn the water off. Got a good shock from the garbage disposal
Today at 7:42 AM

Found the power shut off and turned it off. Tried to turn off the water under the kitchen sink but it’s still leaking.
Today at 7:56 AM

Not dripping but literally running.
Today at 7:56 AM

We put a bucket under the sink, but the only thing we found was a metal bucket. I’d turned the power back on so that we wouldn’t be sweltering in a few moments and told the kids just to stay on the bed and off the floor — it seemed unlikely that anything could happen, but why take a chance? When the bucket got full, K asked if she should just the bucket it out to empty it.

“Not unless you want to get a shock,” I said. I told her to just stand there as I went through the breakers and tell me when I’d disconnected the power to the kitchen. I reached to turn off one breaker; nothing. I turned off the second; nothing. I reached to turn off the third and, touching the metal of the breaker box itself, got a little shock.

“Screw this,” I thought, grabbed a plastic hanger, and turned off all the breakers.

Still no word from our host. I sent another message:

Just got shocked at your breaker board trying to figure out which breaker is for the kitchen.
Today at 8:08 AM

The host finally arrived — “finally” I say because from our perspective, it seemed to be an almost endless ordeal — and I told him everything that had happened. Texts can only provide so much detail.

Needless to say, we didn’t stay another night. There are apparently plumbing and electrical issues galore in the place not to mention water everywhere, and so we went through day as planned and then drove an hour and a half south to cut our driving time to the Everglades tomorrow.

And what was planned? A visit to the Clearwater Marine Aquarium, which really should be called an animal hospital. We got to see Winter, the tail-less dolphin who inspired a movie, sea turtles missing fins, sharks that had been caught by a commercial fisherman who didn’t realize that they would grow to be as big as they did and asked the CMA to help — a host of wounded and healing animals. It included a boat trip with a marine biologist who talked about the various animals they trolled for in the bay, then pulled up nets and with an assistant took inventory of what they found.

A final afternoon at the beach and we packed our bags and headed further south. Tomorrow, on to the Everglades.

Kennedy Space Center

To see the amount of engineering and the problems surmounted to get people into space, to get people on the moon, to create all the equipment, materials, procedures to accomplish all this — to see it all in person is somewhat overwhelming. And then to think that, despite all this, we can’t even get along with each other.

St. Augustine, Day 2

Castillo de San Marcos

We began the day visiting the oldest masonry fort in the continental US. The Spanish built it in the late-seventeenth century after Sir Francis Drake attacked and leveled the city of St. Augustine. Was Drake a pirate? It sounds like a pirate-esque thing to do. Not quite. He was a privateer, which is basically a pirate to everyone but the country from which he originated.  As long as a British privateer didn’t attack British ships, he was not officially a pirate for that country. The Spanish regarded Drake as a pirate; the British, as a hero.

The fort itself was constructed of coquina, which is essentially a sedimentary rock made of compacted shells. It had to be pulled out of the ground — not quite mined, not quite quarried — and then left to dry for up to two years. When you look closely at the walls of the fort, then, you essentially millions upon millions of tiny shells and shell fragments. Though it could take a direct hit from cannon fire, the coquina, according to the masons who built the fort, could crumble in one’s hands.

The Boy was fascinated with the cannons; the Girl was fascinated with very little.

Oldest Wooden School House

Described as a “historic cedar-and-cypress building offering a glimpse of school life in Spanish Colonial times,” the old school house on St. George Street provided some insight into how much the education system in the States has changed.

For one thing, there was the method of dealing with troubling students: slow learners got to wear the dunce cap; students showing disruptive behavior were put in a small space under the stairwell leading up to the teacher’s private quarters. We deal with such learnings in a more humane way these days.

The other difference is how the education was funded. Each student had to pay some sum for each week’s instruction. If a family couldn’t afford to pay with money, they had to barter with the teacher. Today, we have free universal education, a system that at one time would have, no doubt, been labeled as socialist but somehow today seems acceptable, even beneficial.

Pirate Museum

What’s a pirate? What’s a sea captain? It seems that it’s like a terrorist: one man’s terrorist is another’s hero. One country’s sea captain is often another’s pirate.

One of only three actual Jolly Rogers extant

We learned that a fair amount that we thought we knew about pirates as, predictably, false. Much of it seemed like those things we learn to be myths about which we later think, “That’s obviously a stupid thing to believe. How could such an idiotic idea take hold?” Take for example the idea of attacking a ship with the Jolly Roger flying, cannons and muskets firing. It’s just silly, the guide explained. What if the pirate ship gets a lucky shot? The vessel they’re trying to loot sinks, along with all its booty. What if the attacked ship gets a lucky shot? The pirate vessel sinks, along with all its crew. Instead, pirates flew the same flag as the target ship and ran up the Jolly Roger only at the last minute as a sort of psychological terrorism for the victims. And killing all the people aboard the ship? How would they get the word out about how terrifying the pirates were? Better to torture or kill a few crew members then send the rest on their way.

The greatest irony of the museum? On display was Captain Kidd’s family Bible, one of the older existing copies of the King James version. On the other hand, perhaps not quite so ironic: some of the carnage of the Old Testament would make Kidd’s adventures seem almost playful.

Anastasia Beach

This was our third day at the beach. We’ve all been impressed with the size of the waves compared to those on our SC beaches, but today, they were positively enormous. The lifeguard had put on a red condition flag: hazardous. We soon saw why: enormous waves and a couple of obvious rip tides on the beach. We kept the kids close to the shore and close to us, and an enormous advantage became clear: with such huge waves, even the lingering moments of waves were good enough for the kids to boogie board.

I, of course, took on some of the large waves a bit further out. I learned a couple of things. They’re brutal when trying to ride them on a boogie board: they tend to toss you around like a rag doll if you hit the wave too late. The second thing I learned: the force of relatively small waves can be enormous, which put into perspective the tsunamis that hit the Indian Ocean in 2004 and the Japanese tsunami of 2011: the waves rushing in look to be only a few feet tall in the videos and, they are indeed. However, knowing how those relatively small waves today knocked me back, even when I dove under, even when I tried to crest them by diving over them — I cannot imagine the terror the victims of those tsunamis experienced.

As in Warsaw last year, I couldn’t shake the thoughts of what horror that is for parents when they cannot protect their children from evil. We take for granted in the Western world that things like that don’t happen to us.

Depressing thoughts to have on a vacation, but such thoughts also always remind me of how fortunate, how simply lucky we are to have the life we live.

Stone Mountain Vacation

Georgia Aquarium

The first stop was the Georgia Aquarium, reportedly the biggest in the world with over ten million gallons of water in their various tanks. The kids were fascinated with most of it, but the highlight was the dolphins, both in their display and during the dolphin show. With the way the trainers were hugging and kissing the dolphins between the tricks, it was surprising the kids were begging for a pet dolphin afterward. Instead, they were begging for a stuffed dolphin at the over-priced gift shop.

“We can order one online and it will be cheaper,” K and I explained to no avail. They had already decided: they would split the cost between them and buy the dolphin, sharing it for all eternity.

We all knew where that was headed…

Stone Mountain Day 1

We arrived at Stone Mountain on Tuesday, which would have technically been our first day, but we spent the evening setting up camp and fixing dinner, so I don’t count it as day one here. The first full day at the park was packed: the line park (such as it was — nothing in comparison to the challenge of the line park in Babcia’s region) followed by a train ride, a trip to the top of the mountain (which is the largest deposit of granite in the world, with only 1% visible — the rest of the deposit stretches ten miles into the earth and spreads to five states under the visible ground), and the famed laser show in the evening.

Stone Mountain Day 2

The second full day got off to a slow start due to the late hour we all made it to bed after the laser show. But somehow, I look at the pictures I’d loaded earlier and think, “Wait, these are from when we returned Friday, the final day, day three.” So what of day two? Not sure — such is the nature of a good vacation: it all blurs together in one’s mind.

Home Away from Home

With the addition of a new camper, we had to buy a new tent. This time, though, we looked at the experience of our “four man” tent and realized that tent sizes (i.e., the number of people that can sleep in it) assume that the campers are crammed in head to toe with nothing else in the tent. The thought of the four of us in our four man tent was horrifying, so we bought a six man tent.

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We’re not into roughing it with a two-year-old, and we knew we would need quite a bit of room for storage, including toys for two. We shopped around, bought a tent, put it up, decided we hated it (and saw a small small hole in the canopy), took it back, shopped some more, and finally bought a tent online.

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The result: utter comfort. Enough room for everything, a protected storage area, and plenty of space for toys.

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Having room when we slept made every other part of the trip more enjoyable because it really became a home away from home, with similar daily routines. Of course there’s the eating and the sleeping, but with the creek just a few feet away, daily laundry trips make the rituals complete. Oh, of course we didn’t wash anything in the creek for real. The excellent campground facilities made that really unnecessary. But for a quick rinse, say from accidents…

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Great Smoky Mountain Railroad

Day two, we messed up. We turned a vacation into a trip, complete with deadlines and alarm clocks.

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Not that these are bad things, or that the outing itself — a trip on the Great Smoky Mountain Railroad — was a waste.

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There was lots to see, including a quarry that absolutely fascinated the Boy.

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Not to mention the simple fact that we were on a train: it’s hard to over-estimate the excitement of a little boy who loves Thomas and Friends almost as much as he loves Bob the Builder, and to combine the two was a moment of sheer perfection.

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The views weren’t bad either.

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But we decided, in the end, that perhaps it would have been better just to hang around the camp site — to keep it a vacation.

Down By the River

Vacations shouldn’t really be planned. Sure, you have to plan when, you have to plan where, but the what, for a true vacation, has to be spontaneous. There might be a thousand and one possibilities or five, but for it really to be a vacation, none of those attractions can really be put into any kind of schedule. Then it becomes a trip, and a trip and vacation are two totally different animals.

Vacations have flexible schedules, flexible activities, ice cream at half past ten in the morning, late mornings, late nights, kids begging to “do it again” and parents being able to reply, “how about tomorrow?”

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If all of that is true, we don’t get to go on vacation very often. K and I have always been all about the “plan maximum” for a given trip: see as much as you can, do as much as you can. Go, go, go!

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This weekend, though, we finally had a vacation. Almost. One planned activity. That doesn’t count, does it? The rest were sort of spontaneous decisions, choices drawn from the various options presented by camping in a small North Carolina mountain town.

Final Day

The final day at Lake Tillery also included a boat ride, with the girls sitting in the back singing Polish Christmas carols as the Boy slept.

Carols on the Water

The destination: “Big Bridge,” a name that sounds just like something a three- or four-year-old would name a bridge that is rather large. Sort of like Big Wolf. (He still sleeps with the Girl every night. “He keeps me calm,” she once explained.)

"Big Bridge"

Of course, there was one last swim…

Swimming by the Lake

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First

Nana and Papa certainly have the picture somewhere: I stand by my uncle’s pond, rod and reel in hand, with a small fish on the line. I must have been four, maybe five. The rod and reel seemed impossibly heavy, and I thought the photographer — my uncle? mother? — would never snap the picture.

So I think I can understand the Girl’s frustration with me as I maneuvered for picture after picture of her first fish.

Boat Ride Bookends, Part Two

After the boat ride and swimming, we were shocked suddenly to discover it was lunch time. And once lunch was over, we were shocked at how tired the kids were — except the two youngest.

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But soon after, everyone was rested and the water called us back again. The little puppy running around the lakefront — dubbed Cutie by the kids — was quite an attraction, too. In fact, more so in many ways. Even when the puppy wasn’t there, they played as if she were there. “We must find Cutie!” L cried out, fishing for her with a bit of line and a magnet. “She must have fallen in!”

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But she hadn’t — we were the only ones to fall in. Make that jump in — the Girl’s newest water obsession.

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Meanwhile, the youngest looked on and ate an early dinner.

With a twelve-week-old, our schedule is his schedule. “He ate at three,” K begins, figuring the next feeding time and its impact on our less-than-tight schedule. Sometimes that’s a challenge; at the lake, it was inconsequential. After all, how many vacations run on a tight schedule? Well, scratch that: I know some who run their vacations like boot camp.

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Evening came and we decided on another boat ride. The Boy took it all in stride: his expression consistently said, “Oh well, here we go again. This should be fun…”

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And it was for some of us. L got to drive a boat for the first time. It was a carefree frolic for her. No stress; no worries, no fear.

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We returned to find brilliance.

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Brilliance that shifted.

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Boat Ride Bookends, Part One

Day two at Lake Tillery began and ended with a boat ride. “I’ve never been on a boat,” L announced in excitement, obviously having forgotten earlier rides in Slovakia.

Yet it was certainly the Boy’s first boat ride, the first time we bundled him up in a life jacket.

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“L would not have put up with this for a moment,” K laughed as we pulled out of the channel into the lake. The Boy, though, simply snuggled into the jacket and fell asleep.

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Had he known who was driving, he might not have been quite so calm. L’s best friend from Montessori, E, was at the wheel, his father at his side, doing a fine job despite the jokes.

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Pulling into the dock of E’s aunt, K immediately loosened the Boy’s life jacket and found a place for him to continue his apparently eternal nap.

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The Girl took a quick break, and upon waking, the Boy joined his mother in the lake with his newest friends.

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Afternoon at the Lake

L has fallen in love with water this summer. Among her favorite sports to watch in London are swimming and diving; she asks daily to go to the pool; she flops about in the tub in her best imitation of Rebecca Soni. Despite her consistent love of water, though, she wasn’t that wild about the beach when we first went. Or when we went the second time. So when we headed to North Carolina with friends for a weekend at the lake, I was a but curious how she would take swimming in the open water.

As might be expected, she was a bit cautions at first. Thought she’d given up her arm floats earlier in the summer, she learned that one of the rules of the pier was that children must always wear flotation devices — and since there were no more swim belts, the Girl was stuck wearing her arm floats again.

There was also initial concern regarding what else might be swimming with her — or under her. Talk of an enormous catfish that broke a line earlier in the day had her worried and sitting on the edge for a while.

But only for a while.

Thus began a weekend of firsts. Fishing, for example — something that requires more patience than I thought the Girl had ever shown in her whole life. Something that involves touching things the Girl might not like to touch, like hooks and worms and fish. Something that can pass hours with only one reward: the peace of the wait.

Yet the girl is growing, and she’s always surprising us with what she can do, what she’s willing to try, what we can force her to eat. (Some humor intended there.) Fishing became the big hit for the Girl.

Yet there were the old stand-bys — what kid in history has been able to turn down an invitation to watch a film while sitting in an old water heater box?

Cramped, stuffy, view-blocking — it didn’t matter. What mattered was to be in the box. The movie was only secondary entertainment.

With a full moon that night, though, adults had other forms of less-cramped, more serene entertainment.

The Return to Reality

The return after a long break is both nerve-wracking and refreshing. The former comes from the unpredictability of fourteen-year-olds. The latter is a simple function of having a long period away from each other. As much as I like my students, it’s good to be away from them from time to time — to be around adults more than kids. (Well, having a five-year-old daughter, I’m not sure how much that’s really possible.)

For everyone today — teachers and students — it seemed the “refreshing” won out. Far from being reluctant to return to studies, many students seemed positively eager to come back — at least that was the feeling I got in my classes.

It was a good Monday, and often can one say that, especially after a long break?

Waterfalls

Throughout Transylvania County, North Carolina, there are virtually countless waterfalls. One can purchase a guide that provides directions to various sites, with some of the less popular ones including instructions like, “Turn right on the gravel road just past the fish hatchery. Drive 1.1 miles.” Yet many of them are easy to find; indeed, they’re hard to miss, like Looking Glass Falls.

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Down a winding, paved path to an enormous rock outcropping, our family and our guests find our way to one of the most significant falls in the area. A fine mist drifts through the gorge combines with the cool water for a most effective chilling experience. All that’s missing is a chair and a good book (preferably a ratty copy: it’s likely to get ruined in the mist).

Lacking those things, we do what comes natrually: the children splash each other and K, and I switch the camera to the six-frames-per-second mode to capture fifty photos of the fun that will be whittled down to one or two.

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We’re not the only ones playing, but it seems to me we’re taking the saner route to amusement. Of course, the adolescent head is impervious to rocks, adolescent arms never lose their grip, and adolescent feet are always sure and balanced.

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After a bit of splashing around, it’s time to head further up the stream to Sliding Rock, the most famous and most popular attraction in the area. Indeed, it’s so popular that we arrive to find the parking has closed because of overflow, which means the wait times for the main attraction — obviously a large rock one sides down — are close to fifteen minutes.

Instead we head further up the stream to the education center, which houses the fish hatchery. In the outdoor “race tracks” (do they actually have contests?), we find the trout are, according to our New Jersey Polish visitors, upchani jak ƛledzie: apparently commuters and fish of all species can be described this way. The saying refers to the habit of packing pickled herring tightly in jars for storage.

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After a picnic break, we contemplate returning to Sliding Rock. Instead, we go for one of the “turn right on the gravel road just past…” waterfalls.

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It turns out to be not as much of a waterfall as it is an outdoor, stone-faced sprinkler. The floaties and life jacket we brought for the children are for naught.

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Still, a lovely view, some nice light, and a chance to trek through the forest for a while. It is a teaching experience, one could say. But not a lot of fun. That would be Sliding Rock, and we decide finally to head back and see if it’s still packed.

It’s not, and in fact, there is virtually no line for the star attraction.

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K goes first. After a while, she talks the Girl in to a short run with her.

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Perhaps Sliding Rock will become yet another metric of growth: the first time the Girl slides solo. Eventually.

Returning

The Girl entertained herself with a box of bandages…

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Botany Bay

It’s probably one of the most famous roads on Edisto Island: a sand lane that runs under a canopy of Live Oaks, looking positively like something out of Gone With the Wind.

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Botany Bay Wildlife Management area is actually made up of three plantations: Bleak Hall, Botany Bay, and Sea Cloud. All three grew sea island cotton, which has particularly long fibers and was used in France for high quality lace.

This morning, we’re going on a botany tour — appropriate, given the name of the site. One other family is joining us.

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We walk among the marshes, stopping every few moments to learn a bit more about the island.

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Along the way, one young lady catches a fiddler crab.

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L gets her own:

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We learn about the importance of the marshes as a protective barrier for hurricanes: they act as sponges and thus do much to minimize the effect of higher tides from hurricanes.

We find out that the English came to Edisto in search of riches and found a treasure in the huge Live Oaks on the island.

We learn that the use of palms in South Carolina naval fortifications were literally so effective at dissipating energy that canon balls essentially bounced off them.

We arrive at the beach, where our guide, Meg, gave us more information on loggerhead turtles and residents’ effort to help them.

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It’s about the third time we’ve heard about loggerheads and the nest relocation activities of the Edistoians. They’re obviously proud of it, and rightly so: it takes a great deal of dedication among many people to keep the program going.

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Meg shows us a loggerhead skull, and it’s immediately obvious how huge the turtles are. The females drag their bodies out of the water to dig a nest, and often enough, they don’t get beyond the high tide line.

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The incoming tide destroys the nests; volunteers on the island, though, head out nightly and relocate the nests. Then the hatchlings only have to worry about birds and raccoons as they make their way to the surf.

After Meg leaves, we explore the beach a bit on our own, and what a beach it is — like something from a tourist brochure. In fact, it is.

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The ocean is slowly reclaiming this portion of the shore. It creeps inward at a relatively steady pace, turning everything into beach, and hence killing all the flora that cannot handle an intensely salty environment.

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K takes the camera and goes for a picture walk;

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I stay with the Girl, hoping to talk her into the ocean,

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unsuccessfully.

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The first camera I remember owning was one our family bought at Sears just before a trip to California in 1984. I believe it was even a Sears brand; it seemed terribly fancy for a twelve-year-old, though it was just a point and shoot.

The next camera I remember was an SLR manual focus that I borrowed from a friend. I took some pictures of birds, but I don’t think I ever developed those shots.

It wasn’t until I went to Poland in 1996 that I became seriously interested in photography. I took a Canon point and shoot with me, but I quickly discovered its limitations. I headed to the market and bought a Zenit — a Russian made SLR that could drive nails. Literally.

K’s first camera was a Russian view finder that I can’t even recall the name of. She moved to Zenit and Nikon; I replaced my Zenit with a succession of Nikon and Canon manual and auto focus cameras.

Finally, K and I ended up with our current primary: a Nikon D70s, which was fairly cutting edge when we bought it. Since then, we’ve added a couple of lenses to our collection and have a whole bag of glass to carry around.

Friday, we pack our things and head to Charleston for a day of wandering about the city, stopping at cafes for coffee, taking pictures, and simply experiencing one of America’s most historic cities. We arrive and I glance in the back.

“Where’d you put the camera?” I’d been packing our bikes and related materials. I assumed…

“I didn’t get it. I thought you…”

We look at each other for a moment.

What to do?

Simple: enjoy Charleston without a camera. Life without a camera is possible.

In the meantime, Nana and Papa took the Girl to the serpentarium. Nana and Papa remembered their camera…

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