matching tracksuits

fun in threes, sometimes fours

the girl

Lunch with Aunties

Lunch with Aunties who have maintained Dziadek’s family home. Since neither had seen L in close to two years, there was a lot of doting.

“Does she understand Polish?” asked Aunt A.

“Of course!” Babcia answered. “Every word. And since she went to pre-school these last two weeks, she’s begun speaking it very well also.”

And yet the Girl buried her face in my arms for the first few minutes.

VIV_4565

But equally as inevitable was the change that came as soon as cousin R began tickling, chasing, and generally goofing with the Girl.

“You can’t get me while I’m with ciocia!” she squealed every time R approached.

VIV_4597

Ciocia became the great hero, always defending L with hugs and little tickles of her own. When she gave L seconds on ice cream, she certainly moved into Most Favored Auntie status.

VIV_4574

Yet it was not all tickles and giggles: R is getting married in a week, which means L will experience her first Polish wedding party.

“Do you know how we’re going to dance and sing!” Most Favored Aunt reminded L regularly. Indeed. The wedding is one of the things I’ve been most looking forward to about this visit. There are of course the usual happiness for R that he’s getting married, but there’s more to it than that.

VIV_4592

A Polish wedding party is so unlike its American counterpart. It’s a celebration at full power, an all-night adventure in food, love, music, laughing, dancing, libation, chatting, and everything else that makes life wonderful.

VIV_4594

And every visit with family and friends, we get some little taste of some portion of that fast-approaching evening.

VIV_4595

Puddles

Take a six-year-old, some puddles, and a pair of gum boots and what do you have? An obsession with every (and I mean every) mud puddle.

Damp Krakow

The Girl and I headed to Krakow today. I was hesitant to take her: she can get fussy with too much walking, and I was intent on visiting some new ground.

"Are you sure you want to go? It will be a lot of walking, and we'll be doing things you might not find so interesting," I explained.

"Like what?"

"Like visiting old churches."

"Sounds okay," she insisted.

And so we went. After all, what else were we to do? Now power at the house due to repair work; no option that involved excessive outside time (for in Krakow, one can always take cover almost immediately).

And so we went.

Florianska Approach

The first time one walks from the general transportation area )the bus station and train station, as well as the muddy lot that serves as the "station" for all private lines) to the main city square is probably etched in most people's memory. Turn at the Florian Gate, head down Florianska Street, and the spire are the end only hints at the grandour of the city square. As L and I headed down the street, I somehow doubted she would be as impressed. The Romanian brass band did, though.

Plastic Nonsense

Some things were predictable: every single kisok with plastic nonsense -- every single one -- acted as a magnet for the Girl. "Can I look at this around at this one?" "Can I take a look at this one?" So of course when we went to the Sukiennice, she was in complete heaven.

To her credit, many of the trinkets and nonsense were for friends. And a very fun little toy for Little Brother.

Churches

Going to Krakow means unquestionably going to church. Going to churches. They're everywhere, and almost all of them are incredible. There are of course a couple of churches one must visit: Wawel's cathedral and the Basilica of St. Mary.

Wawel Hill

A visit to Krakow is incomplete without visiting the royal palace on Wawel Hill. Like many other potential attractions in Krakow, this one was likely not to rank too high on the Girl's list of favorite/impressive sites. The plastic-nonsense-kiosks reign supreme. Still, some things grabbed her attention: the idea of a courtyard, which I explained as a yard surrounded by a giant house as opposed our house surrounded by a yard, fascinated her; the idea of visiting the cave of the Wawel Dragon both fascinated and frightened her.

Do Kota

VIV_4190

L has a great new friend at a neighbor’s house. Occasionally, she brings the little fellow over for a visit.

Odpust

It’s a hard word to translate: odpust most strictly means “indulgence” or “pardon.” But there are other, wider meanings. In Pyzówka today, it would best be translated as “church fair” or “church fete.” In short, today was the Solemnity of John the Baptist, the patron saint of Pyzówka’s small parish. (Technically, the Solemnity is tomorrow, but who wants to have a church fair on a Monday?)

VIV_3994

That means a festive Mass, with the majority of parishoners dressed in traditional highlander clothing and a string band playing during the offering and communion. And because G is a member of the group, I was able to join them before Mass as the got in tune and rehearsed for a moment.

VIV_3997

Mass began and I stayed with the band as they took their place in the choir loft. And suddenly, there was the reminder of what Catholicism in America used to look like: no Extraordinary Eucharistic Ministers; the priests alone distributed Communion. Additionally, while there was no actual rail, so to speak, parishoners behaved like there was an altar rail.

VIV_3999

After Mass, there was Adoration complete with a procession around the church.

VIV_4008

VIV_4020

But for the children, all that was, in a sense, only a prelude to the real highlight of the day: stall after stall of venders selling one (or more) of four things: cheap plastic toys, cheap plastic jewelry, bags of candy, and/or fireworks.

VIV_4026

Dolls, gummies, tractors, bracelets ping pong sets, rings, lawn mowers, hard candy.

VIV_4027

A jarmark for kids. We returned with mountains of silliness and sweet gesture. The Girl decided we needed to buy something for the Boy. She chose a toy, asked how much it was, and paid for it with her own money. And she even haggled (with some encouragement from me) the price down five zloty.

VIV_4028

She becomes more Polish every moment.

VIV_4042

VIV_4045

With her godmother

Godmother

VIV_3869

Her Own Money

VIV_3714

L made her first jarmark purchase today: a fine little purse.

Jarmark

Dress shoes, curtains, cosmetics, pig intestines, wrist watches, toys, paintings, binders, nails, cigarettes, t+shirts, pens, hatchets, bras, cookies, hammers, cloth, suits ducks, hand-carved decorations, wiring, pots, chairs, sandals, strawberries, hats, metal detectors, potatoes, toilet plungers,house shoes, sickles, blinds, perfumes, hiking boots, mufflers, pocket watches, panties, puzzles, pans, pipes, scopes, cherries, hedge trimmers, cutlery sets, skateboards, lawn mowers, porch swings, DVDs, planers, tables, knife sharpeners, spoons, screw drivers, CDs, hair brushes, power outlets, hair driers, chickens, Croc rip-offs, faucets, pencils, stomach lining, Teva rip-offs, rake handles, hiking poles, plums, Nike-rip-offs, wrench sets, geese, bikes, tobacco, ties, pencil bags, homemade cheese, levels, skis, pigeons, tank-tops, forks, nuts, tennis shoes, pigs, binoculars, hunting knives, socks, butter knives, rakes, carving knives, fillet knives, Russian cameras, notebooks, axes, inline skates, cats, insulation, pencils, e-cigarettes, tiles, bolts, dresses, light switches, high heels, instant coffee, dogs, shovel heads, baseball caps, chains and stakes for grazing cows, and countless other items, all available at your local jarmark.

Polish Ketchup

VIV_3683

The Girl has decided that Polish ketchup, with its hint of pungency and its lack of sweetness of its American counterpart, is most decidedly not for her.

First Day at (Polish) School

It's L's first day at a Polish school, picking up with the kindergarten kids for their final two weeks of school. She was upset the night before: "I don't want to go!" was a common tearful refrain. "I don't want to go" are the first words out of her mouth this morning. But a little bribery works wonders: "After school, we'll stop in at Steskal's for an ice cream cone, and later today, we'll go visit a toy store."

VIV_3593

And so off we go, heading through the fields to school -- another "only in rural Poland" moment.

We meet with the director (not, it turns out, my former student, which is odd: I had two students with the exact same name, and now this makes the third female in this small area with the same first and last name), and she leads us to L's teacher. Each class is given a name like "Bumble Bees" and "Dragons" and this and that: a real mix of names. L has joined the "Forget-Me-Nots".

VIV_3602

It's a colorful room with an original bit of decoration in the middle.

VIV_3603

The first few minutes she's very clingy. She doesn't want to participate; she doesn't want to speak; she doesn't even want to show her face, literally. I coax her to a table of girls, and I begin chatting with them, hoping L will join in. They all introduce themselves, we talk a bit, and slowly L begins to come out of her shell. She eventually asks for a copy of the work the children are completing.

VIV_3607

Before long, the kids circle up, sitting "Turkish style" (a direct translation of the Polish equivalent of criss-cross-applesauce). Then there are games, marching, chanting, singing, generally silliness. L takes part, somewhat reluctantly.

VIV_3597

Soon it's time for the "second breakfast" (i.e., snack), and as the children are washing up, the teacher tells me that after snack, they're going to be the next in line to go out and look at the firetruck that has been sitting in front of the school most of the morning -- sort of a guided tour of a firefighter's world.

As we head out, another "rural Polska" moment, for we have to wait as an elderly dziadek drives his equally old tractor down the street, a tractor so old with such a weak engine that it has difficulty going over the speed bump. The driver has to throw it in reverse, getting up a little more momentum the second time, to roll over the bump.

VIV_3609

We cross the street and the presentation begins. The firefighters show the kids their oxygen masks, their aspirators, their hoses, their helmets -- in a word, everything.

Afterward, we all head back inside for the latest installment of Cała Polska Czyta Dzieciom -- All of Poland Reads to Its Children, roughly translated. Representatives of various professions have been coming to the school to read to the children, and today, it was a police officer's turn.

VIV_3648

Of course all the children are interested in one thing, and one thing only: the officer's pistol. The officer take the clip from the gun, gives it a tug to release any shell that might already be chambered, then holds it up for everyone to see. Since Poland, like most of Europe, has very strict limits on citizens' gun ownership rights (in short, there are none), most of these children have never seen a pistol in person (except on the belt of a police officer). It's a nine millimeter with a six-bullet magazine, the officer explains, and there's significant "Ooo'ing" and "Ahh'ing." I find myself thinking that had this happened in the States, some kid in the group would have raised his hand to explain that someone in his family has a nine millimeter with a seventeen-bullet magazine.

VIV_3653

But we're not in the States, and the gun produces the intended reaction, and as the children exit the room, the story has disappeared into a fog of chatting about the pistol, especially among the boys.

VIV_3655

But L has other things on her mind: there's a picture that's still only partially colored.

After school, as we walk with ice cream cones to the roar of tractor trailer trucks heading to Slovakia ("This is an international throughway now," Babcia has explained more than once), we talk about the day. L decides tomorrow she can stay a little longer, then Wednesday, the whole day. Provided we go to the flea market first.

She's turning Polish faster than I thought possible.