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food and cooking

Thanksgiving 2015

When I was L's age in the early eighties, Thanksgiving almost always meant hours in a car when I was a kid. We lived in the southwestern portion of Virginia, with family in Nashville and the Charlotte area, which mean alternating Thanksgiving journeys of six and four hours respectively. After living in Poland and depending on public transportation for so long, four- and six-hour journeys don't seem like much of anything at all (I recall making back from Warsaw to my village in the south exceptionally quick once in the late-nineties and thinking, "Wow, it only took me nine hours!"). At the time, though, the trips, especially to Nashville, were endless. Add to it my propensity to car sickness and it became a little slice of hell.

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The trips to Nashville were simple, small affairs: we stayed on my mother's brother's small farm, and I was essentially alone most of the weekend as my cousins were all much, much older than I (at least at that age, ten years seemed like "much, much"). The great advantage was it was, indeed, a farm, with lots of acreage and a magical, huge barn by a small pond my uncle dug out himself. It was on this farm that I caught my first fish and first shot a gun (my father's relatively rare bolt-action shotgun). My cousins would make a tunnel in the hay just for me (or so I thought -- the truth involved church youth groups), and the hall closet included more board games than I knew existed.

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Trips to South Carolina were often much different. Often, my father's whole family gathered together, and with four sisters and a brother, all with their own kids, some of whom had kids themselves (I was the second-youngest on this side of the family), it could be quite a gathering. The vast majority of my father's family smoked at that point, and weather was always a concern. "We don't want to be cooped up in that house with all those smokers," my parents would comment.

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This pattern continued through most of my life, even into college. Then, off to Poland for three years, and Thanksgiving became a gathering with the few other Americans in the area or perhaps nothing at all. Then, two years in Boston and Thanksgiving with a friend's family, followed by four more years in Poland, during which time I don't think I celebrated Thanksgiving a single time.

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In recent years, we've taken to hosting our own little Thanksgiving dinners. "I'll take Thanksgiving," I told K, and so it was for a couple of years. I found a great recipe for stuffing that I ruined the second time though by playing around with it. And I invented a butternut squash soup that was good enough to repeat the next year.

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This year, though, we headed back to family in South Carolina, just east of us, closer to the Charlotte area. My cousin and her husband made a straw house some fifteen or so years ago that in the intervening time has grown and grown becoming charmingly eclectic in all senses.

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She and her family always have exchange students staying with them, so there's always an international flair to the dinner with K's Polish additions (by request) and Korean heat.

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The Boy made a new friend in an old cousin. It might have been the first time that K saw E. (Initials only can get confusing. Perhaps I should call cousin K "K2" or something similar.) He immediately charmed her, and she played with him and watched over him the entire afternoon.

But through all the changes in how I've experienced Thanksgiving, some things never change.

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E on Soup

We tried a new soup tonight for dinner. The Boy wasn’t impressed. A few comments through dinner:

  • After the prayer: “In the name of the Father, and of the Son, and of the Holy Spirit. Amen.” “Daddy, I asked Jesus for a different soup.”
  • After the first bite: “Daddy, this soup tastes like, like sea turtles.”
  • Later during dinner: “Daddy, some soup is good, and some soup is not so good.”
  • Still later during dinner: “Daddy, I need some water to wash the taste.”
  • When I told him he’d had his last bite: “Hurrah!”

Preparation

The Girl decided that she wanted to help K make barszcz, that most perfect of all uses of the beet. We're meeting friends for a post-trick-or-treating party tomorrow night, and the hosts asked K to bring barszcz. What can I say -- she's a master. Everyone loves her barszcz -- both varieties.

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The Girl peeled some of the beets before heading off for a bath then peeled some of the carrots afterward. They all simmered with parsnip, garlic, onions, and some herbs to make the stock that will form the basis of the soup.

"Since it's not a postny soup," she said, "I also threw in some smoked ribs." Which is to say, because it didn't have to be vegetarian because of Lent or Advent, she used a few of the ribs I smoked a few weeks ago.

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The other request was for smalec. In a word, smalec means lard, but to call the dish that shares the same name simply "lard" is a gross injustice. "Lard" is for frying donuts and cutlets. Smalec is a little slice of heaven -- or perhaps a little glob of heaven, for it is essentially fat.

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Fat with bacon bits, finely sliced (and sauteed in butter) onions, and slivers of apple (fried in the bacon drippings). At least that's the way K's mom taught her to make it. There are probably a thousand and one varieties, and truth be told, we've already begun experimenting: we took some of the meat from the ribs used in the barszcz stock and chopped it finely to mix in with the other ingredients for the smalec.

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"Why not?" K shrugged when I suggested it. "It's all pork."

Cooking over Fire

Except for organized, group events, I don't remember really having any kind of bonfire growing up. It just wasn't something we did. Part of it was likely where I grew up, for certainly kids who grew up in the country must have had bonfires. But for those of us who grew up in developments planned right down to the arrangement of identical-floor-plan houses, it probably never happened. At least it never happened in my universe.

For K, on the other hand, growing up in Poland, they were like baseball games or tailgating in the south: just something one did. Go for a walk in any of the woods that surround K's home village and you'll eventually find a spot where some group or other threw some rocks in a circle and lit a fire. And many houses have a fire pit somewhere on the property.

Since Nana and Papa gave us a fire ring that someone gave them -- it's Christmas all year round in our backyard -- we've been having bonfires fairly reguarly as the weather permits, which means generally spring and fall. Open fires in 90 degree heat and pea-soup humidity are not very pleasant, but now that things have cooled down and the humidity has dropped to normal level, we try to have a little fire every now and then. The kids adore it, and we find it's an almost magical family time. But there was always something missing: food. We roasted weenies on sticks sometimes and made s'mores every now and then, but that's nothing compared to the feasts Poles prepare on their bonfires. This week, though, we bought a cheap kit to suspend a grill over the flames, and tonight, it was like being back in Lipnica again.

Autumn Tomatoes

Even though it’s nearly November, we still had tomatoes in the small raised beds we accuse of being a garden. For the last several weeks, though, the ripening process has all but stopped, and so ahead of tonight’s possible freeze, K sent the kids out to pick the remaining tomatoes.

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They were to segregate them into red and green, with the plan being to eat some of the green later this week in the form of fried green tomatoes and putting the rest in paper bags to ripen slowly.

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Given the color distinctions, everyone felt it was best if E just held the bowl.

In the Kitchen, In the Yard — Food

A friend invited me to join a social media group he's set up that focuses on food. His friends -- and he's got many -- have been posting the most amazing pictures of the most incredible things they've been cooking. It got me thinking today about what and how we eat.

I had a colleague who admitted to me that she and her husband almost never eat at home. "We go out every night because no one feels like cooking," she laughed. And I recall reading an article somewhere some ten or so years ago about apartments built without a kitchen with the assumption that the owner/renter would eat out every day. Such eating misses out on what's truly amazing about food, the creation process behind it. Often, for me, the preparation is just as enjoyable as the meal itself: having taken over Thanksgiving dinner for our family, I'm already beginning to think about what to cook. At the same time, though, I understand that that's probably the case only because I cook so infrequently.

For K, who does most of the cooking, I think it's not always quite as enjoyable, all the chopping and cutting and slicing and stirring. She often begins the cooking at night, after the kids have gone to bed, getting as much of it done before going to bed. Soups, for instance, are almost always completely done before she goes to bed. And while she does truly enjoy cooking (though perhaps baking a little more, I suspect), sometimes it can be just a drudgery for her.

That leads to the second half of my thoughts: the what. We rarely eat anything that could be called "processed." Sure, we use canned beans in chili most of the time, and we sometimes cheat with this or that, but it's usually what folks here in the south would call scratch cooking. K's soups always begin with a pot full of vegetables and a couple of pieces of meat. And in recent years, we haven't even bought sandwich meats all that much, preferring our own smoked meats to anything you can get in the store.

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There's a joy in that as well -- the cutting of the wood, the preparation of the brine solution for marinating, the tending of the fire. It's another case of the process being as enjoyable as the product. It all takes time, a finite resource that's even scarcer when one figures the children into the equation. Yet what else is one going to spend the time doing? And besides, few things bring together a family as effectively as a good meal.

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Perhaps a bonfire, with s'mores.

Making Biscuits

What self-respecting family in the south wouldn’t know how to make scratch biscuits?

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Split Pea Soup

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Mushrooms

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