After the newlyweds and guests leave the church, the bride and groom “receive” all the guests — nothing particularly novel about that for a non-Pole. What is novel is the kissing.

Mwa, mwa, mwa — left cheek, right cheek, left cheek again.

The men kiss the bride; the women kiss the groom; the women kiss the bride; and most disconcertingly, the men kiss the groom.

Having been raised in a non-kissing culture, it’s taken a little while to get used to it. It’s not just at weddings — most official, congratulatory occasions require kissing.

On Saturday 14 August 2004, I kissed about 120 people. I tried not to take the initiative, especially with the men. But if a man wanted a smooch, well, culture dictated that I pucker-up.

When Dave came along in the receiving line, we shook hands like men and left it at that.

Kissing finished, the photographer took over.