matching tracksuits

fun in threes, sometimes fours

polska

My always obsession...

Friends and Landscapes

13a

D has been K's best friend for as long as I've know K, and at least ten years longer. She was K's guardian angel during our wedding, always fixing K's veil, K's hair, K's dress -- always fixing.

Today, we went to the village D and her family now call home: Pyzowka. I could go on and on about this and that, about how it's such a beautiful village situated perfectly in hills that look on mountains. About how the girls loved the visit, especially the time wih D's daughter. About how the time with good friends always ends up with smiles and laughter.

I could go on and on about all that, but the pictures speak for themselves.

Pyzowka is a village that in a sense no longer exists in Poland. Villages that used to rely on farming and were powered by horses are no longer either. What has happened? A mass exodus? Demographics? Perhaps a little of both.

My own experiences in Lipnica -- itself a time machine -- many children paid special attention to English lessons because they promised the possibility of escape.

One former student told me, "One woman I clean for asked me, 'Where did you learn to speak English well?' I replied, 'I had a great English teacher.'" I was flattered, to say the least. And I saw for the first time how I sold the only ticket out of the village.

"It's better than working in the fields."

Often I saw my students working in the fields over the summer. For them, a summer break made sense, for they still lived the reality that inspired the summer break throughout the Western world. In the States, I'm not so sure it's necessary.

And so everyone wanted to escape. And I returned. And probably would return again if the stars aligned themselves.

After all, who could ever think of escaping views like this?

"If I lived in Pyzowka," I told K, "I would to for a walk every stinking day."

"I know," she replied.

"Today didn't stink!" proclaimed L from the back seat.

Point taken.

Still, if you had views like this, wouldn't you head out for a stroll as often as humanly possible?

And if you had friends like this, wouldn't you visit them as often as possible?

Coming and Going

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Hay Making

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The Cold and the Rain

Rain, ten degrees Celsius -- you might say that it's a perfect Polish summer, but that would be too pessimistic. Yet rain or shine, the cousins must swing.

And play in the small play house Dziadek built.

Yet there is a bit of frustration. L understands Polish perfectly; her willingness to speak it is a different situation entirely. As they're swinging, S asks, "Dlaczego ciagle mowisz po angielsku?" "Why are you constantly speaking English?" "Dobra pytania" I respond, yet L says nothing. Instead she begins the international language of three-year-olds: she begins making as many odd sounds as possible.

In the end, the swing was the hit of the day. With aunt Dominika, Kinga, and I, the girls must have swung for ten hours straight. Perhaps that's an exaggeration, but not by much.

In the meantime, Babcia chases the newest member of the family -- a little mixed puppy -- for digging up her flowers, for about the tenth time. "Ja cie dam!" cried babcia, half seriously, half in jest. "Ja cie dam!"

Poles would call such a day "dzien barowy" -- a bar day. But we're not here to sit in a bar. We're here to visit, and visit with determination. And so we head to the school where I taught for seven years.

I meet several colleagues with whom I worked even in 1996, but we're all a little older, a little more experienced. The exception is a young lady who was still in middle school when I arrived fourteen years ago (eighth grade) and now teaches high school. My replacement, one might say, but I guess one would be wrong. Time passes and replacement become irrelevant. All things being fluid in the twenty-first century, talk of replacements is useless.

As we wonder through the school, I begin thinking about how little has changed, which is the nature of teaching: one spends years in the same grade only to realize that, from a certain point of view, one has been running in place. I stay forever in eighth grade now; in Poland, I stayed forever in high school. The results are, more or less, the same.

There are some things, though, that can't be replaced, like a virtual Mama. After dropping by the school, we stop by to visit the family with whom I lived for some time after returning to Poland in 2001. I'm greeted with hugs and "Synku!" It's like a homecoming. It is a homecoming.

We meet the two chicks my Polish Mother (PM for future references) saved from certain death when they fell from the nest and made just enough noise for her to hear.

They're the hit of the day.

A constant, consistent attraction during our visit.

"I want to see the birds!"

And as a result really get no rest during our visit.

But panic builds instincts and reaction. Or so I'm told.

So I've heard, but what do I know? That an evening of football (aka soccer) and assorted liquids makes one less than perfectly willing to blog at eleven o'clock...

Arrival

Twenty-four hours' door-to-door travel disappear the instant the family sits down together for mushroom soup, heavy Polish bread, and the satisfaction of being together again. And then to top it all off, drinks and homemade kielbasa with the father-in-law as we chat and watch Brazil and the Ivory Coast play.

The real joy are the cousins. The girls have met each other once, two years ago. Within a few moments, they were inseparable.

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But in a sense, it's impossible to believe that I'm able to sit, have a drink, watch football (really: why would anyone call it anything else; and that pathetic excuse for a sport that we Americans call football -- punting and kicking off are the only times the foot comes in contact with the ball).

There was quite a lot of travel exhaustion to overcome in order to get to that moment. It began in Charlotte, where the stress level immediately rose as Nana and Papa saw us off. "Why aren't they coming with us?" L asked.

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"Security clearance" and "rules" just didn't make sense to the Girl. "Why can't they come?" Such an auspisious start.

L started the long walk to the gate with heaviness. A fussy girl is not a pleasant traveling companion.

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Things calmed down in the plane. A little coloring; a little princess play -- soon all else was moot.

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The trip, though, was endless: a car ride, the first flight, a ridiculously long layover, a short flight, and a 100 kilometer car ride.

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Bottom lines: we're all thrilled to be back in Poland; we're all tried; none of us can wait to see what tomorrow brings.

The Girl on the Funeral

We were sitting in front of the computer, watching the streamed footage of President Kaczynski's state funeral when the Girl began asking questions.

"What happened?"

"The plane fell."

"Why did it fall?"

"There was a lot of fog. They couldn't see."

"It was dark?"

"Yes, it was."

"I know what happened. They forgot their flashlight."

A simple explanation for the tragedy. Later, she asked for clarification.

"Did the whole plane fall?"

"The whole plane fell."

"Did it fall on the road?"

"No, it fell in the forest."

"It's not good to go in the forest with an airplane. It's dark. They can't see."

Photo: "Dark series #12 - the forest rouse" by Xavier Fargas

Viral

Od momentu odzyskania niepodległości Polski do najazdu naszej ojczyzny przez Hitlera i Stalina, i przekroczenie granicy Rumuńskiej przez Prezydenta Mościckiego upłynęło 7615 dni.

Od odzyskania demokracji przez Polskę do tragicznego wypadku w Smoleńsku upłnęło... 7615 dni.

Just doing my part...

“Big” Saturday

Holy Saturday in Polish is "Wielka Sobota", which translates to "Great Saturday" (though not "great" as a synonym for "fantastic"). It's the final day of preparation for Wielkanoc, which translates to "Great Night." But nestled in the hustle and chaos of cooking, cleaning, ironing, and fretting is a great (in this case, synonymous with "fantastic") tradition: the blessing of the Easter baskets.

Dressed in the traditional outfits of Podhale and armed with two baskets overflowing with food for Easter breakfast, we headed to the church early in order to get our obligatory Easter family portrait.

When we entered the church, the Girl was fascinated: so many baskets, so many colored eggs -- which to choose? Only a quick eye and a quicker hand kept the Girl from pillaging and plundering.

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The baskets tell another story, though. The church wasn't filled, but there were enough pockets of English conversation in the generally Polish-expat crowd that it became obvious that others see the value and beauty of this tradition.

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The priest, Father Theo, certainly likes the tradition. He positively beamed as he spoke, and the joy of his kind embrace of the tradition was infectious.

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So contagious was his joy that he managed to talk a young lady into coming up to read the passage about the Passover tradition. No practice, no warning, just a kind smile and a compliment about her dress.

Another kind word and all the kids in traditional costumes joined Father Theo.
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After the blessing, it was a free-for-all,

on both sides of the lenses. As I was taking a picture, I felt the crowd gathering about me. I realized the real picture was about ten steps behind me.

Shortly thereafter, the shot was about twenty steps in front of me.

And when you're carrying around a large DSLR, everyone asks you for a picture.

Then again, Father Theo has good reason: his camera is a Canon that lacks a screen on the back and, rumor has it, records the pictures on a thin plastic film. I don't believe it myself, but I can attest to the camera's lack of a LCD screen. How in the world does he preview his pictures?

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How does he know, for example, that some outside shots need a little over-exposure?

How would he'd managed to slide his hand back into his pocket, concealing the remote shutter release?

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Or know that he'd captured the petals of spring blossoms falling snow?

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Or be sure that he's caught the conference of Polish women?

"Nonsense!" the Girl would declare. "All that matters is the tree I see the boys climbing and my first chance to try it for myself." With a nervous father always close at hand.

In the end, the best that could be said about such a busy day can't be said with words.

Happy Almost-Easter to all.

Polish Good Friday 2010

Polish Good Friday is a day of baking and cooking, of arranging, cleaning, and preparing.

Theoretically, the house should be turned upside down, shaken well, then scrubbed top to bottom. It's sort of like Christmas cleaning. Since I can't bake (or at the very lease, K wouldn't let me try on Easter), the cleaning was my responsibility.

And I certainly didn't mind. Just look at the kitchen list for yesterday:

  • paczki,
  • four babkas,
  • a regular cake,
  • two salads, and
  • cauliflower soup.

There were also flowers to arrange.

And on to tomorrow: basket blessing, more cleaning more cooking -- seems we need a holiday.

Open Sesame

I'd left it on the counter as I'd cooked dinner earlier tonight, and as I picked up the bottle of sesame oil, I suddenly fell back through the years and found myself standing in my kitchen in Lipnica Wielka in the late mid-90s, holding the bottle of sesame oil I'd inherited from Roy, an American returning to the States. Standing here in Greenville, I closed my eyes and for a few moments, I could almost feel myself back in that odd kitchen: the little refrigerator in the corner; the old wood-burning oven that I'd covered with a tablecloth and pressed into service as a dish-drying counter; the overhead light hanging from a wire, casting a harsh yet dim light throughout the room.

I imagined myself putting the sesame oil back in its place. I'd been so happy when I realized, a few weeks after moving into the apartment, that everything in the kitchen finally had a home. It was another sign that the small village in southern Poland was becoming my home. The rice lived a shelf up from the herbs and seasonings, which also housed the sesame oil. Everything had its place, including me.

I imagined myself putting the sesame oil back in its place and wandering into the living room, sitting down to look over lesson plans for the next day. My rock star status mitigated many of the challenges of being a new teacher. I had an advantage over every other teacher: I'd crossed an ocean and half a continent to teach the kids. I was from the land of 90120, Coca Cola, and highways. The honeymoon lasted longer than one might have expected: although I was soon just another teacher, I never became just another Polish teacher. “I learned how to be a different kind of teacher from you,” my Polish counterpart English teacher told me when I left. I enjoyed what I was doing; I was teaching by choice. The kids recognized that.

I imagined myself putting the sesame oil back in its place and wandering around the apartment, feeling lonely. Despite the incredible friendships I developed in Poland, I often found myself alone, and that solitude sometimes bore down upon me.

I imagined myself putting a bottle of sesame oil in a box to give a Polish friend before I left in 1999, thinking I'd never return. A vegan in a land of meat and potatoes, she appreciated different cuisines and figured she could do something with the oil.

I imagined all these things tonight, and for a moment, a familiar nostalgia and longing slid up beside me, brushed me, and moved on. Such an experience ten years ago would have sent me into a depression that might have lasted the evening. It eventually sent me back to Lipnica. Tonight, it brought a smile and chuckle at the power of sesame oil.