Matching Tracksuits

fun in fours

polska 2010

Friends and Landscapes

13a

D has been K's best friend for as long as I've know K, and at least ten years longer. She was K's guardian angel during our wedding, always fixing K's veil, K's hair, K's dress -- always fixing.

Today, we went to the village D and her family now call home: Pyzowka. I could go on and on about this and that, about how it's such a beautiful village situated perfectly in hills that look on mountains. About how the girls loved the visit, especially the time wih D's daughter. About how the time with good friends always ends up with smiles and laughter.

I could go on and on about all that, but the pictures speak for themselves.

Pyzowka is a village that in a sense no longer exists in Poland. Villages that used to rely on farming and were powered by horses are no longer either. What has happened? A mass exodus? Demographics? Perhaps a little of both.

My own experiences in Lipnica -- itself a time machine -- many children paid special attention to English lessons because they promised the possibility of escape.

One former student told me, "One woman I clean for asked me, 'Where did you learn to speak English well?' I replied, 'I had a great English teacher.'" I was flattered, to say the least. And I saw for the first time how I sold the only ticket out of the village.

"It's better than working in the fields."

Often I saw my students working in the fields over the summer. For them, a summer break made sense, for they still lived the reality that inspired the summer break throughout the Western world. In the States, I'm not so sure it's necessary.

And so everyone wanted to escape. And I returned. And probably would return again if the stars aligned themselves.

After all, who could ever think of escaping views like this?

"If I lived in Pyzowka," I told K, "I would to for a walk every stinking day."

"I know," she replied.

"Today didn't stink!" proclaimed L from the back seat.

Point taken.

Still, if you had views like this, wouldn't you head out for a stroll as often as humanly possible?

And if you had friends like this, wouldn't you visit them as often as possible?

Coming and Going

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Hay Making

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Two Crops

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A Break In the Clouds

It felt like it had been raining forever. Perhaps it was just the unavoidable pessimism we were feeling about the weather: the forecast did not look pormising at all. Perhaps it was experience: after living in Poland seven years, I was familiar with the depression about the seemingly-continuously gray sky. So when we woke today and it wasn't raining, we knew we had to go out and do something special.

A trip to Slovakia was in order.

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This year, however, it being so cold, we weren't able to take the boat out over flooded village. There was only one goal, in fact (other than taking the cousins out for an adventure): Bryndzove halusky.

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If this Slovakian adventure looks similar to the Slovakian outing two years ago, that's because it is.

It's the known and the comfortable that we're seeking, with a touch of adventure. For example, we'll head south to the Tatra mountains again, but we'll try a walk in a valley new to us. After all, it's not vacation as much as a sort of homecoming.

And so we headed back to Slovakia, back to Namestovo, and it was, in a way, like we'd never left. We drove on the roads that we'd cycled on so many times, around the lake where we stayed during two New Years' vacations. Back to our old mini-vacation spots when we lived here.

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In Namestovo, we discovered gypsy carnival. Except the operators were gypsies only in spirit, traveling from town to town, living in RVs improvised and standard.

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But what was that to the cousins? They only cared about the few rides set up in the corner of the parking lot, all of them involving, in one form or another, going in circles.

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Once back home, more of the familiar and the known: a walk to the river.

I recall very few visits to Jablonka that didn't include a walk to the river. Even in the depths of January snow, we took walks to the river, a round-trip journey of about four kilometers (roughly 2.5 miles).

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In many ways, it was for the cousins as well. "Who wants to go for a walk?" Reaction: minimal. "And see cows and chickens?" Instant agreement.

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Had we added, "And jump in puddles," we certainly would have gotten a better reaction. Indeed, the puddles and the mud were the hit. "Bloto!" one cried, the second echoed, and in moments, they were plodding through yet another puddle.

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And so it continued throughout the entire walk: the cousins ran ahead, we called for them to wait, they waited. Repeat.

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Once in the meadows, the mud disappeared, but flowers everywhere, as were the smiles.

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In short, a fine second day in Polska.

Portions

One of the many things to love about the slight differences between Europe and America:

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Along with prices, menus include the size of the portions.

The Cold and the Rain

Rain, ten degrees Celsius -- you might say that it's a perfect Polish summer, but that would be too pessimistic. Yet rain or shine, the cousins must swing.

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And play in the small play house Dziadek built.

Yet there is a bit of frustration. L understands Polish perfectly; her willingness to speak it is a different situation entirely. As they're swinging, S asks, "Dlaczego ciagle mowisz po angielsku?" "Why are you constantly speaking English?" "Dobra pytania" I respond, yet L says nothing. Instead she begins the international language of three-year-olds: she begins making as many odd sounds as possible.

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In the end, the swing was the hit of the day. With aunt Dominika, Kinga, and I, the girls must have swung for ten hours straight. Perhaps that's an exaggeration, but not by much.

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In the meantime, Babcia chases the newest member of the family -- a little mixed puppy -- for digging up her flowers, for about the tenth time. "Ja cie dam!" cried babcia, half seriously, half in jest. "Ja cie dam!"

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Poles would call such a day "dzien barowy" -- a bar day. But we're not here to sit in a bar. We're here to visit, and visit with determination. And so we head to the school where I taught for seven years.

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I meet several colleagues with whom I worked even in 1996, but we're all a little older, a little more experienced. The exception is a young lady who was still in middle school when I arrived fourteen years ago (eighth grade) and now teaches high school. My replacement, one might say, but I guess one would be wrong. Time passes and replacement become irrelevant. All things being fluid in the twenty-first century, talk of replacements is useless.

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As we wonder through the school, I begin thinking about how little has changed, which is the nature of teaching: one spends years in the same grade only to realize that, from a certain point of view, one has been running in place. I stay forever in eighth grade now; in Poland, I stayed forever in high school. The results are, more or less, the same.

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There are some things, though, that can't be replaced, like a virtual Mama. After dropping by the school, we stop by to visit the family with whom I lived for some time after returning to Poland in 2001. I'm greeted with hugs and "Synku!" It's like a homecoming. It is a homecoming.

We meet the two chicks my Polish Mother (PM for future references) saved from certain death when they fell from the nest and made just enough noise for her to hear.

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They're the hit of the day.

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A constant, consistent attraction during our visit.

"I want to see the birds!"

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And as a result really get no rest during our visit.

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But panic builds instincts and reaction. Or so I'm told.

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So I've heard, but what do I know? That an evening of football (aka soccer) and assorted liquids makes one less than perfectly willing to blog at eleven o'clock...

Arrival

Twenty-four hours’ door-to-door travel disappear the instant the family sits down together for mushroom soup, heavy Polish bread, and the satisfaction of being together again. And then to top it all off, drinks and homemade kielbasa with the father-in-law as we chat and watch Brazil and the Ivory Coast play.

The real joy are the cousins. The girls have met each other once, two years ago. Within a few moments, they were inseparable.

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But in a sense, it’s impossible to believe that I’m able to sit, have a drink, watch football (really: why would anyone call it anything else; and that pathetic excuse for a sport that we Americans call football — punting and kicking off are the only times the foot comes in contact with the ball).

There was quite a lot of travel exhaustion to overcome in order to get to that moment. It began in Charlotte, where the stress level immediately rose as Nana and Papa saw us off. “Why aren’t they coming with us?” L asked.

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“Security clearance” and “rules” just didn’t make sense to the Girl. “Why can’t they come?” Such an auspisious start.

L started the long walk to the gate with heaviness. A fussy girl is not a pleasant traveling companion.

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Things calmed down in the plane. A little coloring; a little princess play — soon all else was moot.

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The trip, though, was endless: a car ride, the first flight, a ridiculously long layover, a short flight, and a 100 kilometer car ride.

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Bottom lines: we’re all thrilled to be back in Poland; we’re all tried; none of us can wait to see what tomorrow brings.