Tag Archives: travel

Ognisko

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A simple concept: some wood, some sausage, a match or two, a loaf of bread, something to drink, someone to share it all with. Put it all together, though, and it somehow becomes more than the sum of its parts. Add the laughter of children and it becomes positively magical. The conversation winds through topic after topic as the sausage begins to sizzle, and as the sun sets and everyone pats their bellies, literally or figuratively, one gets an almost divine feeling.

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“And we looked out over the sausage and steaming tea, heard the laughter and watched the glowing embers and dimming sun, and lo, it was good.”

This post is part of the following threads: Trips to Polska, Polska 2013 – ongoing stories on this site. View the thread timelines for more context on this post.

Arrival 2013

After two flights, a moderate layover, a couple of car rides — it all seems to have gone by in a flash when L showing her youngest cousin, D, the treasures she bourhg with her. Of course she kept calling her by her older sister’s name, but little D didn’t mind.

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She had someone to swing with, to pick berries and snack on cherries with,

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to play hide and seek with

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to hide obsessively in the same spot with.

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There was someone to climb the back fence with, or at least to try scaling with.

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Each arrival has been somewhat different, and this time began with a visit to wojek D’s house. Met us at the airport, and after bit of time at his place, we took Dziadek’s car and headed south. So for the first time, we arrived with me at the wheel.

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Babcia of course had treats and treasures for us: a big lunch, strawberry compote, and a dog who was so excited to see L that they both couldn’t contain the excitement.

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Yet after so long sitting — ten hours in the plane to Frankfurt including two hours on the runway in Charlotte, a two hour layover, an hour-and-a-half flight to Krakow, and a twenty-five minute drive to D’s house followed by another hour-and-a-half drive to babcia’s — there was only one thing to do: go for a walk.

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Everywhere there was someone working: kids who’d ridden their bikes out ot the fields to help with raking the hay.

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And there I was, camera in hand, tromping along the rutted road that generally leads people to the fields to work,

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and I was just taking pictures of my shadow and worrying about taking pictures of strangers, wondering whether I should ask permission, wondering what that might look like,

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a grown man wandering around the fields he should be working in.

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And at the end of the walk, the river, a babcia with her two grandchildren played at the water’s edge, with the boy begging over and over for a picture.

“Honey, I left my camera at home,” babcia answered.

“I’ve got a camera.,” I offered, which led to a long conversation about the weather, about moving here and there, about vacation — a wandering conversation that seems like it could have only happened outside the States. But perhaps that’s just me projecting.

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Once we’ve met our goal, though, we turned to return. Everyone else, though contiued working. As long as there’s sun to illuminate the task at hand, they continued working.

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As I neared home, the tractor rattled up behind us, passangers hanging on the back, other helpers coasting along behind.

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Perhaps though not in the same way, we might very well have been thinking, “A good day — a good day.”

This post is part of the following threads: Trips to Polska, Polska 2013 – ongoing stories on this site. View the thread timelines for more context on this post.

Arrival 2000

“So what’s new in Lipnica?” I asked as we bounced and bumped along the rough roads of southern Poland. It was June 2000, and I’d been gone from Poland for a year. A number of unexpected developments led me back much sooner than I expected, and I was in the car with two of the first guys I met in Lipnica, two guys I’d consider my best friends of my time in Poland, K and J.

What could have possibly changed in a year, I wondered. Lipnica is the end of the trail: it is on a road that literally led to the base of a mountain and nowhere else. No one passes through Lipnica; one can only go to Lipnica.

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“So what’s new in Lipnica?” I’d only meant it metaphorically. What could be new in a village that sustains itself through a bit of logging and a lot of working abroad? One could pass by house after shuttered house in the village, its occupants in Germany, Austria, or even America, working to earn money to finish the house, to improve the house, perhaps even to forget about the house. Lipnica is not a village on the rise, I thought.

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“So what’s new in Lipnica?” Perhaps I was asking about gossip, for everything I saw out the car window as we neared the village looked essentially the same. Fields and forests, forests and fields. Probably the same view for generations.

“So what’s new in Lipnica?” I asked as we came out of the last forested area before the village.

“You’re about to see,” came the reply.

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I probably cursed at the surprise of seeing a gas station in the pristine fields leading to the village of my dreams and often frustrating reality for three years. A travesty; a sacrilege; a profanation.

I’m told the changes in Jabłonka are even more shocking. “You won’t recognize it,” I’m told. “You won’t believe it,” I hear.

And Lipnica?

All images via Google Street View in anticipation.

This post is part of the following threads: Trips to Polska, Polska 2013 – ongoing stories on this site. View the thread timelines for more context on this post.

Charlotte to Frankfurt

The post I thought about writing: how was this a disaster? Let me count the ways. It began with the simple fact that the owners and operators of Charlotte airport thought it would be a good idea to renovate the parking, but this meant demolishing completely the existing parking facilities, putting everyone in long-term parking, and busing them to and from the facility itself. This means long lines to get to the terminals, long lines to get to the parking, long lines to get from the parking to the buses—long lines everywhere. The next disaster took a while to strike. We checked in without problems; we got through security with no issues whatsoever; we found our gate quickly.

And then the problems started again.

There appeared to be a line, so we stood in it. Only to find it wasn’t the line to check in. Check in? Who needs to check in again at the gate? Everyone.

“Are you in line?”

“Yes.”

Five minutes later, I ask again. “Are you in line to check in?”

“No.”

Where is the line for checking in? There is none. There’s a mass of people, a gaggle of travelers, bunched up around the check-in desk, but there’s no line. And once we wade through this mass, we learn that the gentleman whom we were waiting to speak with now has to do the boarding procedures, thank you, and we’ll have to wait for that gentleman, over there. We finally get to the gentleman in question, who makes two pink marks on our boarding passes and hands them back to us, sending us to another mass of people were we’ll wait to board the plane.

Once on the plane, the next adventure: a poor child who is in complete panic, screaming, screaming, screaming endlessly. As a parent, I completely understand, and more than anything, I feel sympathy for the child and the parents. But that sound does grate, even when it’s your own child. And then the second child, in a different part of the plane. And then the third, in yet another. What I’m really expecting at this point is to hear and endure the complaints of the passengers around me, but thankfully, either they all think the same thing that’s running through my head, or they’re just keeping their comments to themselves. It’s a nice unexpected development nonetheless.

We’re about to pull away from the gate when the next adventure strikes: a fault in the electronics of the plane is indicating that a door is open when it clearly isn’t.

“Ladies and gentlemen,” the captain begins. “We’ve got a little malfunction here that is going to require some time to fix. We’ll have to wait a few minutes as the maintenance crew performs some checks and diagnostics.” Fifteen minutes later, we receive the all-clear and begin taxiing out.

At which time the next adventure begins: the air conditioning ceases working. And in a plane of that size, it means instant heat, instant high humidity—instant everything unpleasant. A few minutes pass.

“Ladies and gentlemen, as you’ve probably noticed, we are experiencing some difficulties with the air conditioning. We’ll have to return to the gate to have the maintenance crew look at this new issue,” crackles the pilot over the PA system. The diagnostics are estimated to take half an hour; the fix ends up taking another hour or so. All told, by the time we are taxiing back to the runway, we’re two hours behind schedule.

The next challenge is only a mild inconvenience, but irritating nonetheless. The audio system for one of our seats doesn’t work, and so movies are out of the question one of us—there’s little doubt who that “one” is. And of course the airline-provided headphones won’t stay in L’s ears, so I give her the ones I brought and take hers. Which have terrible sound and are inaudible even at the highest volumes when I plug it into the iPod.

It’s easy to complain — too easy. There are other inconveniences, but there are blessings as well. The flight is without incident. L is able to curl up into her seat and fall asleep. The entertainment selections for L are suitable and enjoyable. I manage to get a touch of rest. Still, on the balance sheet, this airline comes out far behind Lufthansa. The moral: be more flexible with your dates and fly the airline you trust.

Now we sit in Frankfurt airport, waiting for our connecting flight. L plays Angry Birds on the Nexus and I sit wondering if I’ll be able to make the drive from Krakow to Jablonka or if we’ll end up staying at the brother’s-in-law place. The hardest part is behind us, I like to think; the most tiring anyway.

This post is part of the following threads: Trips to Polska, Polska 2013 – ongoing stories on this site. View the thread timelines for more context on this post.

Arrival 1996

It’s been almost twenty years since I first went to Poland with seventy-some other Americans in an effort to save the world. We were young. We were idealistic. And truth be told, most of us we were probably a little naive. We were probably there less for altruistic reasons than we would have cared to admit.

We arrived five hours late, thanks to a mechanical issue with the plane and the necessity of flying a replacement part from Atlanta to Dulles, so when we pulled up to the ul. Bolesława Chrobrego 33, it was early evening as opposed to midday. The sun was setting, and all around the square, socialist-realist building where we volunteers would soon be spending so much time, dozens of Poles — our host families — milled about as kids were rollerblading on the sidewalk surrounding the building, We all stood around as the staff matched host families to volunteers, I stood with my tired bags, wondering where I’d be spending that night. A young man, newly-graduated from liceum, approached me, led by a staff member and accompanied by a middle-aged mustachioed man.

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Photo via Google Street View

“This is Piotr, your host brother,” said the staff member, and soon, I, Piotr (who insisted I anglicize his name to “Peter”) and the man I assumed to be my host father were roaring through Radom’s streets in a Maluch  – a Fiat 126p, a small, ubiquitous car with little leg room and a 24 horsepower engine — arriving at ul. Perłowa 12, where I stayed for twelve weeks.

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Photo via Google Street View

I never saw the man again, but I saw the arrival grounds on a daily basis, taking a bus (the the number fifteen, was it? or twenty-something?) up ul. Słowackiego, eventually getting dumped an empty lot where the bus turned around and headed back the other direction. I and two other volunteers — a married couple — were the first to get on, and as the bus lumbered along its route, more and more volunteers boarded until there was a little knot of Americans at the back of the bus.

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Photo via Google Street View

Our days usually started in a small shop next to the bus stop, just a bit in front and to the right of the training facility where we learned to teach English, to speak Polish, to protect the dziennik with our lives, and to do all the little things that were supposed to make our two years in Poland a success. We started at the store, though, because that’s where all good days in Poland start, and because we needed water for the day and perhaps a snack or two. The water was obligatory: with no air conditioning, the buildings that housed our classrooms grew almost unbearable by late morning. Learning to decline Polish adjectives with sweat rolling down your back at ten in the morning is unpleasant to say the least, and the water served to mitigate and to hydrate.

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Photo via Google Street View

I’ve only been back to Radom a few times since training concluded, and I returned to the training center only once. Every time I’ve been in Poland since, I’ve wanted to return, to photograph the classrooms with the pealing linoleum and stained ceiling. The wonders of the Internet, though, show me that that’s now impossible: where the long buildings once stood there is only a grassy field. The socialist-realist building that housed the cafeteria that served potatoes with dill every single lunch and that held the large meeting room where we gathered as a group is now a library for the Uniwersytet Technologiczno-Humanistyczny im. Kazimierza Pułaskiego, a tech/art (what an odd combination) university.

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Photo via Google Street View

The one thing that really hasn’t changed: the clump of bars just across from the bus stop. A group of us almost always ended the day there, having something cool to drink before heading back to the rigors of host-family life.

Every time I arrive in Poland again, I think of these first weeks I spent in the summer of 1996. The frustration of learning a difficult language, the adventure of always being out of my element, the ironic simultaneous newness and oldness of everything around me new — all these things made each second seem more alive than anything I’d experienced before.

When I return now, nothing is new. Familiarity doesn’t necessarily lead to contempt, but it does threaten complacency. K and I always visit the same sites, spend time with the same people, drive the same roads — it’s only natural when you only make it back once every couple of years. This summer, though, I’m determined to see things anew again.

This post is part of the following threads: Trips to Polska, Polska 2013 – ongoing stories on this site. View the thread timelines for more context on this post.

Final Evening

We’ll be leaving for Poland tomorrow, but not the whole family. There’s the rub. Only L and I are going, for K and E have been a couple of times in the last few months. That makes the trip bittersweet. I’m excited to go: I haven’t visited my adopted homeland since 2010 (L hasn’t been since late 2011). Yet I’m not excited to leave behind K and E for an extended trip, and neither is the Girl.

“I don’t want to go without them,” has been a recurring theme in these last few days.

This post is part of the following threads: Trips to Polska, Polska 2013 – ongoing stories on this site. View the thread timelines for more context on this post.

There and Back Again

K and the Boy have returned from two weeks in Poland. We spoke on the phone, we video chatted via Skype, but the simple fact was they were there while the Girl and I were here.

And yet we look through the pictures K took and it’s just as if we went there: the familiar visits; the time spent around the kitchen table; the walks in the fields around K’s folks’ house; the pictures at the small chapel on the way to the river; breakfast with the sun streaming through the window; the silly play on the kitchen floor.

We weren’t there, but we can see the whole story in a handful of pictures.

Departure

The house feels empty: the Girl, asleep in the other room; K and the Boy, somewhere over the Atlantic. It’s an odd feeling, this quiet, not entirely unwelcome after the stressful departure. Rain, rain, and more rain, and a delayed departure from Munich which meant a delayed arrival in then departure from Charlotte. And then there’s the question of further delays from Munich to Krakow. So it’s been a fairly up-and-down evening.

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When the Girl discovered the up escalator paired with “stairs that don’t move,” the up-and-down became literal. It was a good distraction: the Boy was hungry and the Girl was fidgety.

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Everyone else was, too. Especially in this part of the airport — baggage claim. It’s the worst part of any journey, especially the return home. All you want to do is get back to your own comfortable and known reality and you’re waiting with dozens more people for the worst carousel in the world to do its job.

After some slightly stressful difficulties at passport control, K and the Boy disappeared into the labyrinth of departure gates as L and I walked away, with one of us shedding enormous tears and the other only worried about the journey home and how long the wait for the shuttle bus to the parking — Douglas airport is adding parking garages, which ironically makes for nightmarish parking — will take.

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A slow tearful return ends with the Girl in bed while I put off shuffling to an empty bed for as long as I can.

Departures stink.

Packing

Packing is seldom fun. It should be an event filled with great anticipation, but the stress of forgetting something usually ruins that.

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K is getting ready for a trip to Polska, leaving tomorrow. I tell her, “Except for the moonshine, there is nothing you’re taking that can’t be replaced in Poland should you lose it or forget it.” And as for the shine — bought in a liquor store with an official seal, it can hardly be called shine, so even losing that’s no big loss.

“How I dislike packing,” she says. “How I used to like packing when I was younger. It was a sign of adventure. Now, it’s just trouble.”

Sunday Downtown

We never made it to Falls Park during our walk yesterday, so the family decided to start there today. I would have guessed, were someone to ask me, that we were too late to get much of an autumnal view, but I was happily mistaken.

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This time, though, we took the whole family, including our one-and-a-half tooth Wonder Boy who seems willing to smile at just about anything.

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The Boy’s smile probably had something to do with my wiggling fingers and silly face, but with colors like this, though, who could resist a smile?

Leaves

As we headed into the main downtown area of the park, the sun came out fully and consistently, making the Peace Center glow. We, though, were less glowing, especially the Girl, who had by then adopted an all-too-familiar refrain: “I’m hungry.”

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Nothing is quite as filling on a fall day as an ice cream cone,

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and it never tastes as better than when outside. Or so someone told me.

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Boat Ride Bookends, Part Two

After the boat ride and swimming, we were shocked suddenly to discover it was lunch time. And once lunch was over, we were shocked at how tired the kids were — except the two youngest.

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But soon after, everyone was rested and the water called us back again. The little puppy running around the lakefront — dubbed Cutie by the kids — was quite an attraction, too. In fact, more so in many ways. Even when the puppy wasn’t there, they played as if she were there. “We must find Cutie!” L cried out, fishing for her with a bit of line and a magnet. “She must have fallen in!”

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But she hadn’t — we were the only ones to fall in. Make that jump in — the Girl’s newest water obsession.

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Meanwhile, the youngest looked on and ate an early dinner.

With a twelve-week-old, our schedule is his schedule. “He ate at three,” K begins, figuring the next feeding time and its impact on our less-than-tight schedule. Sometimes that’s a challenge; at the lake, it was inconsequential. After all, how many vacations run on a tight schedule? Well, scratch that: I know some who run their vacations like boot camp.

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Evening came and we decided on another boat ride. The Boy took it all in stride: his expression consistently said, “Oh well, here we go again. This should be fun…”

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And it was for some of us. L got to drive a boat for the first time. It was a carefree frolic for her. No stress; no worries, no fear.

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We returned to find brilliance.

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Brilliance that shifted.

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Boat Ride Bookends, Part One

Day two at Lake Tillery began and ended with a boat ride. “I’ve never been on a boat,” L announced in excitement, obviously having forgotten earlier rides in Slovakia.

Yet it was certainly the Boy’s first boat ride, the first time we bundled him up in a life jacket.

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“L would not have put up with this for a moment,” K laughed as we pulled out of the channel into the lake. The Boy, though, simply snuggled into the jacket and fell asleep.

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Had he known who was driving, he might not have been quite so calm. L’s best friend from Montessori, E, was at the wheel, his father at his side, doing a fine job despite the jokes.

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Pulling into the dock of E’s aunt, K immediately loosened the Boy’s life jacket and found a place for him to continue his apparently eternal nap.

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The Girl took a quick break, and upon waking, the Boy joined his mother in the lake with his newest friends.

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Downtown Rock Hill, Part 2

Is downtown Rock Hill is the story of America? One would certainly hope not, but in some ways, it seems to have all the elements in parallel. Within a couple of blocks we have signs of incredible affluence

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and poverty-driven decay. What’s the difference between these two homes? What’s the difference between the owners of these homes? Over the last few years, my explanations have shifted from the left to the center-right of the political spectrum. The answer seems hinted in other parts of town.

Still only a few blocks away, Nana points out yet another building with personal significance:  the remains of Rock Hill Printing & Finishing. “This was where I was working when I met Papa,” she explains to us. She shows us where she used to enter, pointing out roughly where her desk was.

One wonders if there are any plans to renovate this particular building as others in the area. Just up the road, an old factory has been turned into an apartment complex. One could likely turn this shell into high-ceiling lofts or something similar. But is the demand there? I think back to the abandoned post office just a few blocks away, figuring it’s unlikely that this gigantic building will ever become of anything more than the subject of a blog post.

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Just behind it lies the heart of the factory, once impressive, but now merely tragic. According to one source,

The building of the Rock Hill Printing and Finishing Plant in 1929 moved M. Lowenstein halfway along the way to becoming a totally integrated producer of textiles. The Rock Hill plant bleached, dyed, printed and finished cloth purchased from a variety of sources, primarily in the South. The rapid expansion of Lowenstein through the acquisition of textile mills produced the raw material for the plant and resulted in its own expansion. By the early 1960s, it grew from a plant with 200,000 square feet to one with more than 2 million square feet, which bleached, dyed, and finished both cotton and synthetic fabrics. New processes such as Sanforizing and the use of Scotchgard TM finishing permitted it to create permanent press cloth during the 1970s. Acquired by Springs Industries in 1986, the plant included 23 roller print machines and 7 screen print machines. (textilehistory.org)

Looking at an aerial view of the factory in its heyday, it’s clear the impact its closure had on the economics of Rock Hill. Now, only inspiration remains.

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This is the story of South Carolina, a story that hopefully America as a whole will not echo. But I wonder. South Carolina used to be a textile center. My family’s fate was tied into that of the mills. My mother worked in a mill; my grandmother worked in a mill; countless aunts worked in mills. My father did electrical work in mills; my grandfather likely did masonry work for a mill or two. Every South Carolinian has mill work somewhere in her family history.

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The cemetery just a block or so away is surely filled with those who worked the roller print machines and the bleaching machines, with those who did the screen printing and counted the cost of everything.

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Rock Hill is only one of many textile cities in South Carolina that has suffered this fate. It’s only one of thousands of cities in America that must be harboring doubts that its best days lie in the future.

Downtown Rock Hill, Part 1

Visits to Rock Hill are visits to family. Only rarely is anything else involved. But every now and then, we go beyond the normal visit schedule. This week, we went downtown to visit the children’s museum. After the visit and a quick lunch we went for a quick walk.

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Like many old, small downtown areas, Rock Hill’s small main street is both heartening and depressing.

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On the heartening side, it’s good to see so many beautiful, historic buildings renovated and put to new use. A Baptist church is now a community center.

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Yet the renaissance is only partial, as it often is. Across the street from the restored church is an abandoned post office that stands empty. What are the possibilities? Certainly endless, but the economy places its own limitations, I suppose.

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Just down the street, more evidence of a halting recovering for the downtown area.

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Yet perhaps things are not as they seem. A quick search reveals that Penny Young still runs a studio by the name Photographic Designs. Perhaps she outgrew the space?

Still, one has to admire the effort and the little touches, like the music in the trees, initially confusing as one wanders about,

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and the little cafes with outside tables that would be more inviting if it weren’t for the heat of a South Carolina summer.

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As we walked, though, we weren’t as interested in what is happening in 2012; we were more interested in what was happening in the early 1950′s when Papa was a kid.

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“Here’s where we had our high school Bucket of Lard sermon,” he explained, with typical sarcasm, pointing to a church just meters away from the renovated church/community center. Who knew there were so many churches in downtown Rock Hill?

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Another church, just down the street, was the sight of a run-in with the police. “We were roaring down the street on our skates — and these were those skates you strapped onto the bottom of your shoes and tighten with the key you kept hung round your neck — and the officer comes running out to us, furious. ‘Don’t you boys know there’s a funeral going on in there?’” One can only imagine the noise several boys on metal-wheeled skates.

Still, it wasn’t all amusing stories. Some were touching.

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At the coveted location of the prestigious Dee & Lee Unique Hair Design, there was once a jewelry store. The large display windows are now virtually empty, though one can imagine them filled with bracelets, earrings, necklaces, and rings of gold and silver, all glittering enticingly.

The significance is likely obvious: “This is where I bought Nana’s engagement ring,” he explained as we passed by. It was a photo op one couldn’t pass up: a happy couple standing in front of a hair salon — a picture that contains a secret history.